Framing Embroidery Pictures – Leah Nikolaou

Framing Embroidery Pictures

How To Frame Embroidered Art

I will talk through one way of framing embroidery pictures using an A3-sized paper embroidery as an example. The first time I had one of my embroidery pieces crafted for an exhibition, I had no idea where to start. I only knew that I wanted a white frame, but I've learned so much since then! 

Because my embroideries use chunky tapestry wool and sit prouder than a single mount, an excellent way to resolve this is to use a double mount. The stitches are then not squashed against the glass.

framed owl art

My A3 prints are 297mm wide x 420 mm high, so I always opt for a standard size 400mm wide x 500mm tall frame. The options for frames at this size are many and range in price. I went for a bespoke 25mm white painted wood frame, solid white with a visible grain.

Mounting embroideries

I decided to go for a slightly warm textured white for the double mounts, although I could have also chosen a bright textured white colour. I might try that next time. Mounts are generally acid-free, but it might be worth checking. Likewise, you will need an acid-free backing mount board. Backing boards & mounts with 'off the peg' frames are only sometimes acid-free and may turn yellow over time which may not provide the professional finish you want. So check this out when frame shopping!

So the size difference between the A3 print (297 wide x 420cm) and the frame (400mm wide x 500mm) is 103mm x 80mm. When using a mount, they look best with the same spacing on all four sides of the print. I decided to frame it with a 55mm border all the way around.

Easy Frame are UK-based and allow you to work out measurements online for double mounts with ease. Alternatively, a specialised framer could take the calculations off your hands.

How to frame an embroidered owl aith a double mount

The art papers that I use for printing are of museum quality that can last many 100s of years, so framing to a professional standard makes sense for me. Minimizing contact between the glass and the print and allowing air to circulate will prevent a build-up of moisture during extreme temperatures on humid or freezing days. Allowing air to circulate gives moisture space to dry out, preventing the paper from wrinkling and warping. My double mount provides for this.

I prefer to sell my paper embroideries without frames because framing is a personal choice, often driven by the style of the home and budget. This guide will give you knowledge and confidence when framing embroidery pictures, whether you DIY it or instruct a professional.

When it comes to the glass, again, the options are plentiful! Regular glass is the cheapest option and the option I've used in my example; however, a none glare UV protective glass is a superior alternative. The most expensive glass option is conservation glass, perfect if you're viewing your embroidery as an heirloom piece.

I could have also framed the piece without glass which I will explore in a future post. The benefit of using glass is that it prevents dirt which isn't apparent but will build up over time. The tapestry wool is also an attractive material for insects to attack and destroy, so being behind glass gives much protection, as well as from UV light.

1 comment

  • This is a really useful post on framing your prints. It includes lots of things I hadn’t begun to consider like allowing air to circulate and making sure that the stitches aren’t squashed. I found it really useful! Thank you! x

    Georgia Jones

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